It’s time to start putting the roof on the Tiny House! In this video expert builder Alan Drayton from BioBuild Ltd shows us how to install a corrugate roof. The roofing material we are using is .55mm marine grade colour steel form Dimond Roofing.

To find out more about our roof, visit our website at http://www.livingbiginatinyhouse.com/installing-corrugate-roof-1/

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Installing A Corrugate Roof (Part 1)

| Green Roofs | 20 Comments
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20 Comments

  • violeman

    Metric measurements suck lol !!!
    I do not know why people try to make things harder when all it should be is, 16" centers for studs, 2 foot spacing for 1×3 strapping and 14" grid spacing for you 2×2's when you are laying a grid for steel!!

  • George Minton

    Have you heard of Attic Foil? It reflects heat away from the living area. It requires an air space between the roof and ceiling so when you install ridge vents the hot air is pulled out through the open space between the roof and living space your interior living space will not get the hot air in the house. Search radiant barriers to find out more. or search attic foil.

  • Frank Mack

    Please get rid of the music, this is an informational video, not a music video. I want to consintrate on what is being said. No your video will not be boring. It will do what it is meant to do, which is to inform people.

  • Walkertongdee

    Unfortunately building something to be towed or a houseboat to standing frame standards is a recipe for disaster on the road or water, Weight is the enemy. There are weight regulations that will make the structure illegal or sink you. Innovative engineering is a prerequisite.

  • Wes Hunter

    Hey mate, good job on roof.
    As an ex solar panel installer (approx 1000 panels), in my experience as an apprentice, I found that tin roofs, although easier to install, had a much higher chance of stripping the screws whilst installing solar rail mounting L brackets. (especially into steel frames- this would occur because you have to remove the hex screw and reattach to the same hole, thus making stripping the hole more likely than an original virgin screw).

    A tip for people building or DIYing (note, I am not a qualified builder or sparky, so check with all local relevant laws etc) would be to mount the L brackets as you go/ install the roof (they also hold down the corry). That way you are maximising the strength of the hex screw/ solar L bracket's holding power, and minimising potential for stripped screws as you are killing two birds with one stone.

    Also, similar to having a layer between the steel frame and timber, it is the same with mounting alloy solar L brackets to Gal to prevent galvanisation. We used a thin rubber 'spacer' similar to the rubber spacer on a hex roofing screw. We would also use silicon to further prevent water penetration. This might also be a consideration in design (for truss spacing) as there are local restrictions on the 'minimum' spacing required of solar brackets to enable a cyclonic wind rating. From memory in Australia it was a maximum of 800mm between brackets, but if you have a stripped thread, you have to move to the next corry peak, which means uneven spacing. (and siliconing the stripped hole).

    From an installers point of view, it would be such an easy job to rock up and mount the panels on a pre-prepared tin roof! (and save a lump of time in labor and harnessing etc).

    Love the videos, hope this helps one person on the planet!!!

    From Wespups.

  • Tyler Austen

    It looks like the overlaps were done such that the top overlap is towards the direction of travel… I expected the opposite so that there would be no concern of wind getting under the overlap joints when on the road… Did I see this correctly? and if so, was it done intentionally this way, and why?

    Looking great in general.. Thanks for the excellent vid series.

  • swer009

    Love watching your build! We've chatted to you at some local events and we're starting our build in Feb. 😀 We rescued a klondike pot belly stove but now think it might be overkill for the small space and the climate. What are your wood stove plans?

  • The Munros

    I am SO stoked I found your channel and website. Me and my partner play music for a living and were saving up to buy a housebus to live in while we travel around gigging in the North and South Island. As kids we both lived in old villas and love the style and feel of them. This Tiny House idea fits both those things. So we are now living with our parents, saving for a Tiny House. We'll save for the frame/trailer this year and then I can start building onto it. I'm going to find a way to build a fold-out stage into the side and make it so the living area can double as a recording/mixing studio. We have a 2 year old daughter and another baby due in March, so we'll get to design sleeping space for them too. Very exciting! Our long-term goal is to save enough to buy land to plant our Tiny House on. I can't wait to see more of what you do with yours. Thank you so much for putting this out there. It means the world to see other people in NZ doing this. You have raised our expectations of what was possible, you have brought inspiration to us. We don't feel quite so alone anymore.

  • Ally Wolf

    I know this is a random question to ask on this video but i was wonerin how to have that ort of homy log cabin feeling on in interior design part and also modernize it so that its sleek and small enoough for the tiny house? thank you! by the way i love the house so far you guys are doing great!

  • Lea Lackey

    I love you guys!
    I live in California but would love to use FRAMECAD as well.
    Steel just makes so much sense.
    I hope they will let me do a hobbit styled tiny house!
    ( it also has turrets )

  • BorisBlade7

    A big thing for us was having dormers over the loft. Adding much needed space for headroom, better outside views, and storage. Is there a reason why you guys decided not to go this route?