In this episode we look at one way we can set up a timer for a hydroponic ebb & flow (flood & drain) system.

I found with my timer that I’m limited to only 8 on/off times per day so I will be watering for longer periods during the ‘on’ cycle.

Find your sunrise and sunset times as well as the “solar noon” for you region using this free online tool http://www.timeanddate.com/

Keep in mind these times will change throughout the year but they will give you a good idea on where to start.

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How to build the cheapest and easiest setup for aquaponics and hydroponics! If this works, this setup could just be the cheapest aquaponics setup ever. But it ALSO will relook at the way we see aquaponics setups in the future. No longer will you need multiple pumps and reservoirs, but the ENTIRE system is a closed system much like nature is. The entire project cost me only and here is the materials you will need:
14 gallon fish tank (or one like this: http://amzn.to/2bxSCsX)-
1 air stone strip http://amzn.to/2bPsMhN –
1 Air pump http://amzn.to/2bjuDin –
4 goldfish – $ .75
2 (5lb.) bags of river rock http://amzn.to/2bp1eAG-
1 – 1X12X24 foam board http://amzn.to/2bjve3x –
8 – 2 inch net cups http://amzn.to/2bjPk94 –
3 OR 8 – 3 large multiple plant herb container *separated*, OR 8 small plants –

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How To Hydroponics – S02E23 Setting Up A Timer For A Hydroponic System

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36 Comments

  • Andresa Adolthine

    Also, I have some tactics to grows up to 10 x the plants, in half the time, with healthier plants, while the "fish" carry out everything…”
    Visit here to acquire more information:
    help1.info/aquaponics-tutorial

  • hitechguy18

    You can get 12V Industrial pulse timers (Sleep for 1 – 2 hour and turn on for 2 -3 mins and repeat)
    However A USB Powdered Arduino Uno R3 + SainSmart 2 or 5 – Channel Relay Module for Arduino UNO would be Cheaper (there petty much easy to program and make loop programs for the programing almost plain English ) You can also get a Temp Module so it can keep an eye on green house temps and decide to water more frequent – Light Module it can also turn on/off UFO LED Grow lights

  • HowToHydroponics

    @MrDuckboy99 the batteries I use are basically 6v golf cart batteries that I got from Canadian Tire. I have the two linked in series to make 12v and they have been running great. 

  • Shawn Joyner

    I am new to Hydroponics by a week from a trip to Disney World and got hooked. In watching everything I can I came across your channel and I have got to say your methods are GREAT. I love the idea of going green for the maturing of these plants using solar panels. What kinds of batt do you use for them and where can I get them? Thanks and love your videos once again!

  • nabin bogati

    There are many factors in learning home aquaponics. One plan I found which successfully combines these is the Keiths Ponics Site (check it out on google) definately the most useful course i've heard of. look at this interesting resource.

  • Chel'le Malone

    If I wanted to put this system outside. How would I factor in weather? In other words, what weather would negatively impact the effectiveness of this system?

  • darthvader5300

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKNuoYCdue4
    The Chinampa system and the Floating Burma Garden system are all passive! No pumps needed, the bottom of their lakes and ponds acts as a natural anaerobic-aerobic filtration self-cleaning process with the help of plants like water hyacinths, mentha aquatica (aquatic mint), azolla, duckweeds, juncus lacustria, edible cattails. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKNuoYCdue4

    If I were him I will use a very long perforated plastic tube with it's bottom closed with a perforated plastic bottom cap which is going down to the bottom of the aquarium containing a soil fabric liner or filter geotextile fabric used in air pruning pots, so if the plants' roots reaches down it will be shielded by soil fabric itself and no need for painting the half upper side portion of the aquarium for this will function like the porous artificial banks of the chinampa artificial island that prevents soil from going out and allowing water and air to circulate through them.

    At the bottom of the aquarium I will use a mixture of crushed, pea sized, diatomaceous earth, zeolites, and food grade activated carbon and being porous themselves they will house 100,000 times more aerobic and anaerobic bacteria that will literally turn any fish wastes into ammonia and then into nitrates that in turn feeds the algae eating fishes and bottom feeding catfish and pet snails.

    At the top will be caged openings containing water hyacinths to prevent water eutrophication and aid in water filtration. In the other holes will be caged openings with an open bottom filled with azolla that fixes nitrogen from the air into the water and filters the water and are fish food themselves for plant eating fish, caged mentha aquatic or aquatic mint that prouces a long term lingering fish safe, human safe, and pet safe anti-pathogenic compound, and caged juncus lacustria that provides additional water filtration and exudes a safe organic anti-germicidal compound. The oxygen will be provided by pearl weed known as Hemianthus micranthemoides aquarium plant the produces lots of oxygen and the variety of pearl weed is in the form of bushy type. The other pearl weed variety creates a carpet like growth. Hemianthus micranthemoides becomes bushy if not trimmed, but if trimmed then it forms a peal weed carpet.

    Ever heard of John Todd's self-feeding solar ponds used in raising tilapia, the use of caged water hyacinths to prevent water eutrophication, the use of azolla to fix nitrogen into the water to feed the algae that feeds the tilapia, the use of fresh water diatomaceous earth granules or oyster shells to provide a surface living-breeding area for the bacteria to break down the fish wastes' ammonia into nitrates which in turn feeds the algae that feeds the tilapia, and the use of floating miniaturized chinampas? NO NEED TO FEED THE FISHES!

  • Keith R

    Nice tutorial, but maybe written out directions to cut out the "Extra". Bad idea to move such a fish tank that is full of water. Then you truly don't have a filter doing this method. Sure bacteria does grow on the gravel and all surfaces in there. But its not filtering anything, it is doing a cycle when you've grown the bacteria though, just not as efficient(until then the water isn't as nice for plants and quite deadly to the goldfish, requires frequent water changes till your cycle is running). You will eventually need to vacuum the gravel. Then its better if the water is not always on the roots. That's why people use a bell-siphon to begin with, not just for overfill. Be easiest to add a "under-gravel filter" to this, to concentrate the waste on the gravel instead of everywhere as is. Which will also produce the bubbles you have, could even use the air pump you already have. But even then, with this amount of goldfish in such a small tank(fish lovers will say 1goldfish for a 20-gallon then 10gallons more for each additional, others will say 1inch of fish per gallon. True answer is it depends on you and your water test results). Your bioload will not be handled by the filter system and/or plants, you will need to do 10-50% water changes every week to 4 weeks, depending on your water test results. Goldfish make nice choice since no need for a heater. But bioload wise a molly probably be better suited, less waste(if maintenance is a concern) about same price as feeder goldfish since mollies are used for feeding too. Or danios for their hardiness. Cost wise doing one with a bell-siphon would only be 10bucks max extra, if not 5 or less. Does not require a reservoir, the fish tank is that. Does not require multiple pumps, just 1 that costs as much as that air pump.

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