Four years after installing my new shingles, they’re still nice! Finally I had time to put the video clips together. Please click “show more”, and you’ll know the process much better.
I had only one layer of asphalt composition 3-tab shingles on my roof, so when they were getting worn, I called contractors to give me a bid on a “roofover” or “re-roof”, which is just adding new shingles atop the old. Surprisingly, I couldn’t find anyone to do it. They all wanted to do a “tear-off” with new underlayment and gutters, which is much more expensive, of course. So I looked at my roof, which has easy access, and I decided to DIY. My gutters are still fine, as you can see. The wood plank underlayment is fine too, no “soft spots”.
It was a big project, a lot of physical work, and I had to study each step a bit.
My roof is a “hip roof” (no gables) and it has valleys and ridges. If you’re not interested in those things, you can skip those parts.
A note about electricity: first I was scared of my power lines, but I tested them and found the two hot ones were insulated, and that there was no significant danger from them. I became comfortable around them, but avoided touching them.
Roofovers need shingles of the same exact dimensions as the current ones, so they’ll line up perfectly. This makes it VERY easy to position the new ones. Some shingles are metric 39″ long and others are English 36″ long. My old ones were metric, so I had to look for that.
I chose 30-year Landmark shingles, standard kind. I saw better consumer test reviews for them, and they were not expensive. Readily available, too. I avoided the thick textured dimensional “Landmark TL” kind because reviews said they are heavy and prone to moss buildup. I wanted to keep it fairly light so that I might even do a third layer later!
I read online that for hip roofs like mine, add about 10% to the shingle estimate. I did, and it still wasn’t enough, probably because of my extra ridges and valleys. There is a lot of wasted angle-cuts on roofs like mine, although they look really nice. I had to buy still another 10% more shingles than my original estimate.
I considered using a power stapler/nailer like pro roofers do, but that requires a team and some expertise, not to mention rental expense. It made more sense just to use simple hammer and roofing nails. I did most of the work alone, so a team was not an option.
However, two friends and a neighbor helped a lot. Simple things, like doing a chalkline, sometimes need some extra hands. What goes around comes around…
For specific info on shingling around vent covers and pipe flashings, see this short video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjXA9gSCQQ8
Flashings around electrical service masts are tricky, because you can’t replace them unless you disconnect the power lines. Mine was still OK, so I just added some sealing caulk around the edge of its boot. If I ever need it, there are “retrofit roof boots” and pourable roof sealers (aka “pitch pan fillers” that harden in a form) that can be installed without disconnecting the electricity.
Here’s a materials list. Other than shingles, I bought most of it in big hardware stores. Shingle supply companies had NICE rooftop delivery.
Materials:
* shingles (I estimated square footage; searched online for the manual for the type I chose)
* ridge shingles
* drip-edge (strips of painted metal that you nail all along the perimeter right above the gutters–it’s a spec in the Landmark instructions)
* Starter rolls (these are basically the first course of roofing along the bottom perimeter, and they get covered up)
* Spray adhesive for starter rolls (to glue the starter roll to the metal drip-edge)
* Roof cement (in gallon can and in caulking gun tubes)
* various replacement vent covers and boots (to replace the old ones)
* Flexible roll flashing (I bought this to fit under my existing chimney flashing, just in case)
* Plenty of longish 1.5″ roofing nails, loose in box (I think I was planning for 1.25″ but for some reason they had less availability for a good price; for a roofover, avoid the shorter 1″ nails)
* roll of Grace Water Shield (extra water protection for valleys)
* roll of Jumbo Tex roof paper (also for valleys, probably wasn’t necessary in a roof-over, but doesn’t hurt).
* some caulk/mortar tubes (for minor repairs to existing chimney and chimney flashing.
From what I read, it’s good to get nails with small ridges on the shank, if you can find them, so that they hold better. This job needs a LOT of nails.
Please ask any questions and I’ll try to answer them.
I spent about 00 total, and saved many thousands based on the quotes I was given by contractors. If I had found a handyman to do a roofover, he might have charged an extra ,000-3,000 labor. And now I understand a major part of houses much better. Heck, I might even go into the business….naah!
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Replacing conservatory roof with light weight tiles: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMsDq9eAR6w&t=101s
Bad idea to go over. People that go over give us contractors a bad name. Leave it to the pros.
New roof material is void once you put it on over the old roof in Canada we tear off all the old crap and replace everything it code nowadays
I did a second layer on my old house work out fine how is yours holding up
Thanks I'll be doing my roof this summer .
put a valley metal on jackass
What kind of shingles (brand) do you all use up in that wet area that hold up to all the rains and moisture?
Nice job and video. Ignore the trolls.
Thank you for the video.
I could not tell for sure, but looks like you replaced your plastic pipe vent boots with lead ones. I had to replace mine after 15 years in the sun here in the south. Went back with lead ones. 20 years later they will outlast the shingles. Good job.
Should get a professional when dealing with your roof. Not a DIY project.
is a horrible. job
So how do you see if the deck is getting wet underneath?
Manufacturer warranty will be voided if you overlay the roof. I hope you informed the customer…
ummmm always strip and start fresh. reroofing always has its nightmares down the line.
the easy way
architectural shingles are junk…nco way to go
architectural shingle is junk…nco baby nco old school
Nice vedio Thanks for sharing!
Overlaying is not a good idea. The negatives far exceed the positives.
Awesome video, just what i was looking for! Thank you for taking the time to edit it so well!
Hi mate how long did that take you start to finnish
Nice video
Nice job wonder if you could do mine .
Did you need planning permission to change the high of the roof?