Rose bonsai cultivation has long been practiced in Japan, but is rapidly spreading to Europe as well. It is a plant species rather suited to the techniques of bonsai lovers, by virtue of the small size of the leaves, the delicate branches and the beauty of the flowers. In this sense, it would be preferable to resort to varieties with flowers and leaves that have a limited development, with particular reference to dog rose. This variety, specifically, gives life to a beautiful pink or white flower, and therefore to a decidedly fascinating orange fruit. However, good results can be obtained with most wild species, which among other things have the advantage of flowering with a certain ease. As for the location, the ideal exposure foresees a rather ventilated and fairly sunny position, paying attention, during the very hot summer days, to provide adequate shelter (as well as in winter the bonsai must be protected from frosts). The plant needs a large number of proteins to be able to give birth to the fruits and allow them to ripen: from the photosynthesis that come the sugars useful for the synthesis of this protein, photosynthesis that occurs in the leaves. this is the reason why the pink bonsai it must be in full sun during the flowering and fruiting periods.

The rose generally consumes large quantities of water, especially when the flowers begin to appear: for this reason, watering must be frequent, to avoid that the flowers withering quickly (which is not unlikely) compromise the production of fruits. The jet of water must be directed exclusively on the substrate: if it is directed towards the flowers or leaves, in fact, there is a risk of serious damage. In the summer months, when the temperature rises a lot, it is preferable to use a saucer filled with water.

The rose bonsai needs a terrao composed in equal parts of soil and akadama. Repotting must be done between March and April, in spring, before the vegetative awakening begins. In fact, it can also be done in the middle weeks of May, that is when the newly born shoots seem to have consolidated. The younger specimens should be transplanted once a year, while the older ones every two years, as the rose is characterized by very vigorous roots which therefore, developing, fill the space of the pot in a short time. As far as pruning is concerned, this bonsai requires a slight thinning of the shoots before the resumption of vegetation, during the rest period. It is sufficient to prune the branches above a bud that develops in the desired direction, however leaving two or three buds for each branch. New shoots should be left to a maximum of ten centimeters in length, but clearly a more substantial pruning is essential for younger plants. Larger branches need to be shortened in the spring months. Once cut, they must receive the healing paste on the cuts, which is essential to prevent the surface from drying without forming the scar. If pruning is done in the fall, the branches should be left a little longer. It is also good to remember that the pink bonsai it has the tendency to lose the branches located in the internal areas with a certain ease: for this reason, it is necessary to intervene at the apexes of the strong branches in a timely manner.

Not just pruning, however, in the sense that the bonsai needs further treatments to grow in health, in a harmonious and balanced way. Just think of the pinching, which is essential if you intend to thicken the vegetation. This procedure allows to reduce the quantity of flowers, so as to direct the vigor and development of the plant in the direction of thickening the branches and forming new ones. At the ends of the new shoots, flower buds are formed, which however can also appear on the small branches that unravel from the larger branches. The winding is also very important, which allows you to bend the branches that tend to grow too straight. However, this is a procedure that is effective only on branches no older than two years: with the passage of time, in fact, they become less elastic and sensitive, and therefore more difficult to correct. As for the trunk, however, up to the third year it can be shaped with copper wire, as long as it is cultivated from cuttings. On the other hand, it is impossible for satisfactory results to be obtained after the fifth year.

Finally, it should be remembered that the pink bonsai is rather sensitive to attacks by parasites and diseases: among its most frequent enemies are aphids, powdery mildew, red spider mite, mold, bacteriosis and tendredins. For this reason, in spring it is advisable to use specific anti-parasitic products, as well as always paying attention to the formation of stagnant water.