Outdoor bonsai able to live without problems even inside an apartment, the gardenia bonsai is characterized by green leaves and white flowers. Coming from tropical areas, it particularly suffers from the cold: therefore, with the arrival of the winter season it must be placed in a closed environment, or in an unheated greenhouse, to prevent its roots, usually protected by a quantity of soil. reduced, are exposed to dangerous frosts. However, as summer approaches, the plant can be brought back outside. The gardenia bonsai loves unventilated but airy positions, discreetly illuminated, away from heat sources. Since it prefers humid conditions, it must be watered in every season of the year, obviously without exaggerating, adapting the frequency and intensity of the interventions to the climate, the state of the soil, the season, the growth of the plant. During the vegetative season, however, it needs a greater quantity of water than during the vegetative rest. The watering operation, which must be carried out gradually and slowly, should not be performed too frequently: the risk that would be run would be that of dropping the buds. The administration of water must be done with the utmost caution, so that the soil is able to retain it. As far as fertilization is concerned, the gardenia bonsai, as well as numerous species of flower bonsai, needs a fertilizer based on phosphorus and potassium, for fertilization that must take place from early spring to late autumn, for the entire vegetation period. , however, suspending it in August and during flowering.
It is advisable to use liquid fertilizer, diluting it in the water for irrigation once a month, but also the granular fertilizer performs its task discreetly, also because it is characterized by a slower absorption. It is important to remember to wet the soil before fertilizing, so as not to damage the roots. In order for the gardenia bonsai to acquire the desired shape, the art of bonsai is applied through pruning. In particular, the training pruning, which aims to improve the overall harmony of the plant shapes, must be implemented just before the vegetative rest begins, while there are no special indications, in terms of timing, for the maintenance interventions, aimed at establishing the results obtained, which can be carried out at any time. Of course, to prune a gardenia bonsai you need strictly disinfected tools, or you risk infecting the branches and therefore the plant: the wounds caused (the cuts must be clean and decisive) must be treated with a special healing cream, excellent barrier for parasites as well as a device that allows you to speed up healing. What is the best soil for gardenia bonsai? A mixture composed of half peat and sand in equal parts and half of universal soil will be perfect, remembering to repot at least once every two years (but preferably annually) in order to favor the correct development of the root system .
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With repotting, in fact, we proceed to replace the pot that welcomes the plant with a slightly larger pot (and if necessary, of different material and shape than the previous one) in order to guarantee optimal oxygenation to the substrate. Repotting should be done in spring: as the bonsai grows, this intervention can be delayed over time, up to a repotting every three or four years for an adult bonsai gardenia. Moreover, it is not said that there is a need to intervene on the roots, which are usually sufficiently thin, although rather intertwined: in short, it might be enough to bare them without resizing them in an incisive way. Instead, remember to protect the drainage holes with crushed stone or a grid before the soil is poured into the pot, so that the drainage water does not drag along portions, even small ones, of soil each time. Furthermore, protection of this type represents a fundamental barrier for animal and plant parasites. As for all bonsai, also for the gardenia bonsai it could be useful to use tie rods, weights and wires to modify the bearing of the trunk and branches. The interventions with the stakes must be carried out during the vegetative period, that is when the corrections are received more easily, always paying attention to the branches and the bark of the trunk, which must be protected at the anchor points.
Finally, it is worth pointing out the most dangerous enemies for this plant: animal parasites such as floccosa, aphids, red spider and root lice can create problems, and their appearance must be prevented through specific anti-parasitic interventions, possibly in combination with mixed white oil. In the event that the scale insects cause whitish encrustations, they can be eliminated simply by using a toothbrush, perhaps after having sprinkled a few drops of linseed oil on the leaves.