A look inside a stylish 100 LED solar garden light.

Further tests show that the incredible little A2SHB MOSFET wasn’t actually getting flustered at all. The heat dissipation from the adjacent resistors were the real culprit.

I did remove one of the 0.5 ohm resistors and it had very little effect on the LED current. It dropped from 1100mA to 900mA suggesting that other components, tracks and wiring are being pushed too hard. You might consider swapping in a new resistor to choose a current more suited to your application, balancing between run time and intensity. An example might be to use around 2.2 ohm to drop the peak current to around half an amp or ten ohm for much longer winter run time.

The lithium cell capacity is a reasonable 1200mAh, which was better than expected, and quite acceptable for this type of product. You could upgrade the cell to a larger capacity, especially if you added a larger external solar cell with an output of 5V or more at up to 500mA. That could work well in places with low winter sunshine.

Here’s a generic search linkon eBay to find this type of light:-
Target price is around

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100 LED solar garden light teardown (with schematic).

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  • Alberto Michelatti

    I bought 5 of these outdoor solar lights. I did set all of them on the "shut off/full power light if movement is detected", but one of these lights, after about 1 hour, turn itself to the "constant medium power light, no matter if movement is detected". What could I do to make this "rascal" light work like her sisters? Thank you in advance.

  • Overridest Overridests

    I have the same one. Any ideas how to add a button to leave the leds permanently on? Seems that the pir sends a digital signal and i can not simulate the signal to keep it on. Some help would br appreciatrd. Great video thx

  • TJ Jewett

    Does it seem odd to you that these little lights never include any kind of temperature sensor to prevent charging when the temperature is below freezing? I have a few of these, and if the protection chip is based off of the TP4056, pin 1 is literally there to enable temperature controlled charging cutoff, but it's almost always just connected to ground instead of a thermistor.

  • Mainframe Mainframe

    I have a similar light which I was tampering with to add a manual switch so it is always turned on but had no success. The pir sensor maintains its voltage and probably sends a digital signal to the ic. Any ideas how to simulate the signal or where to add a switch (on your board for example)?
    Btw, thx for the video.

  • Denninosyos Odinson

    I remember one of the first lectures I had in aerospace electronics.. Our professor said; You'll have it easier in a way since you design stuff that will hold, while consumer electronics is designed to break after a set time span…

  • Jim Lahey

    I have two very expensive battery chargers that have failed in the same way.. no one can find out what’s wrong with them? I suspect they have no idea what they are doing.. if your interested I can send them to you from Australia and see if you have any luck with them? Would make a great video even if you can’t fix them.

  • William Le

    Isn't this quite ironic, cus my father literally bought the same thing and installed three in the backyard of my house. I just noticed that today, of all things.

  • justpaulo

    Talking about LED lights I recently got ZAPPED by this one from IKEA:


    I know this lamp is supposed to be installed where the wire comes out of the wall, but that is, most of the times, not the most convenient place or simply the place where you want to put it.
    So I bought a cable+plug to connect it somewhere else, and got zapped when I accidentally touched the plug after testing the lamp and had already unplugged it.
    Like me, probably many others got (will be) zapped by the same lamp, b/c of the same reason.
    I feel that IKEA should be more careful about it.

    I suspect it uses a transformer upfront (to dim the light) which is not discharged, but maybe it worths to be teardown and investigated….